Last night we had dinner at the excellent Cafe Vinilo in Cerro Alegre.  The food was excellent. While we there we discovered that the chef there, Gonzalo Lara, runs the occasional anti-tour of Valparaiso. So we signed up for it today. It is the perfect antidote to the normal tourist tour. It is done at breakneck speed, you go places you would never otherwise go and see, and in tow hours you get at least a week’s immersion into real life in Valpo. Thoroughly recommended.

I’ve included below a few photographs taken off the tourist track.