We drove yesterday from the south coast to the north Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily. It was a dramatic drive up across and through the central mountains of Italy, spoilt only because it was very difficult on the Sicilian roads to find anywhere suitable to stop and enjoy the view. Huge sections of the road are raised on concrete stilts, or driven through long tunnels and the few stopping points are marred by abandoned rubbish.

Our destination was the Madonie National Park in the hills above the town of Cefalu. And what a difference between the south and north of the island. The temperature is cooler, the terrain is infinitely greener and vineyards line the local roads. It is a much softer environment, though the hill roads are from soft, and very similar to much of mainland Italy.